How to grind the Blades on a Chainsaw
You may think that once you have bought your chainsaw, the real work is about to begin. That may be true but it's not only in the organery or your lawn that you will need to think about the tough work. Chainsaws often need maintenance and while you may not be customary with this work, it's foremost that you come to be comfortable with it. Sharpening the blades of the chainsaw is foremost because it will not only save you time and attempt when going to do the big jobs, but it can also keep you safe from injury too.
The first thing you will need to know when sharpening the blades of your chainsaw is the size of your saw's chain. This is because you will need to buy a rotary grindstone or a chainsaw file to edge your blade and these are sold in dissimilar sizes, corresponding to the dissimilar sizes of chainsaw blades.
The chain then needs to be cleaned thoroughly. There are many cleaners that can be purchased for this purpose but if you find them too costly, a uncomplicated mineral water will also do the job well. It's foremost that when you're cleaning your chain that you do not saturate any part of the chainsaw. This is because it can get into the plastic housing of the unit or the motor, and can cause a lot of damage to these parts. As you're cleaning your chain, look for parts that are broken or damaged. These parts can't be repaired but having them fly off while the chainsaw is in use is extremely dangerous. Any broken pieces of the chain should be immediately taken off and supplanted with new bits.
Sharpening the blades of a chainsaw means that the chainsaw needs to be garage and supported. Laying the chainsaw on a flat exterior may be all that the chainsaw needs to get this done by clamping it in a vice so that the blade remains perfectly still is the best option. Next, you need to find the foremost cutter, which is the shortest cutter on the blade. Some chainsaws don't have a foremost cutter, leaving all the cutters the same length. If this is the case, the filing can begin everywhere however it will make it easier if you can lightly mark the first cutter that you filed so that you don't re-file it.
The file can then be placed into the space on the front of the cutter. This is the first tooth that lays flat against the chain and the file should be just about even with the tooth once it's placed inside the empty notch beside the tooth. Then, keeping the file at the same angle as the tooth, moderately slide the file in a twisting motion. This will ensure that anyone you are filing off will not fall to the inside of the blade. You can then do this with every tooth on that side of the blade. After one side is finished, the chainsaw can be turned around so that the unfiled teeth on the other side can also be filed. These teeth will be angled differently than the teeth on the other side so be sure to adjust your blade file as well.
How to grind the Blades on a Chainsaw
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Ipe Hardwood Floors: Awesome or Not?
If you know anything about Ipe hardwood, it is truly an astonishing wood. It has a Janka rating of over 3600, production it one of the densest woods that are currently ready on the hardwood flooring market. Ipe has a lot of very inevitable characteristics, but it also has its issues!
It is so dense that with even a marginal stop applied to the surface, most spills will pool on the top rather than penetrate below. And it survives the abuse from the even a 100 pound sheep dog with minuscule wear marks.
Ipe Hardwood Flooring is referred to by many names depending on the country of origin and who is production the flooring. Brand names like Ironwood(Tm) and Pau Lope(Tm) are base as are "consumer names" like Brazilian Walnut. For some reason, North American retailers think referring to it as a walnut will make it more understandable to today's consumers.
Ipe is beyond doubt a lump of many trees from the Bignoniaceae family (Tabebuia, spp) that share a base appearance and physical characteristics. They are all dense and rather straight grained. Some pieces look quite similar to teak. It is very defiant to decay, termite and dry insect attack, although this is not considerable (I hope) when choosing ipe as interior flooring. It is Very fire defiant as well.
Colour range varies from a medium straw with olive green overtones to a reddish brown with darker black streaks base in some boxes of ipe hardwood. Flooring samples can then have a very large range of colours. Make sure that you understand this, and don't buy, expecting colour uniformity. It is always best, if possible to visit a buyer that has had this type of flooring in use for a estimate of years. You can then judge not only the appeal of the colouring but also the durability of the finish.
For premise it will wish a very good quality grade of carbide blade on your miter saw to even exertion any trimming to length. If you have a large expanse of ipe flooring to cover, a second blade made be necessary. All holes, like those that you need to install for the first few rows of flooring will have to be drilled close to the size of the finishing nail you intend to use, otherwise you will split the wood. Experiment first, to save a few pieces of ipe flooring.
Ipe Hardwood Floors: Awesome or Not?
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How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board
Building a edge-grain cutting board has to be one of my beloved woodworking projects. This is truly a back to basics scheme and one of the most useful items to have in your kitchen. Building a practice cutting board not only makes you fill good but makes a great gift that will last a life time. I hope you enjoy Building this board as much as I did.
In this scheme you will build a face-grain Black Walnut cutting board 9 inches wide x 14 inches long x 1 ¼ inches thick. This scheme is designed for the person with basic tool and woodworking skills.
Recommended Tools
Table Saw Router with ½" Round Over Bit Tape Measure Belt Sander Random Orbit Sander Pencil Bar clamps (4)
Materials Needed
Black Walnut, 3 pieces planed and right edged 6" wide x 15" long x ¾" thick, approximately (1.7) board feet. If you have other lumber you can substitute it for the Walnut. Waterproof Glue Such as Titebond Iii Sand Paper 80,120 and 150 grit Cutting Board Oil for Finishing
Safety First
When using power tools follow all directions related with that tool and all the time wear protection glasses and hearing protection.
Making a Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board
Step 1:
Cut your walnut lumber into 12 strips 1 ½" wide x 15" long on your table saw. Make sure you have a sharp blade that makes a level 90 degree cut, because you have to glue these strips together to make your cutting board.
Step 2:
Now take the twelve 1 ½" wide strips and place them beside each other production a board 9" wide by 15" long by 1 3/8" thick. It is also a good idea to turn the grain of each piece (end grain) 90-degrees to the one next to it, for both power and to heighten the look.
Step 3:
Now that you have the boards laid out like you want it take your pencil and make two wavy lines straight through the width of the board. This way you have a reference on each joint during the gluing process so you don't have to worry, do I have the strip turned the strict way. You can also amount each board if you like.
Step 4:
Next set up your bar clamps and get the glue ready (I propose you use Titebond glue this glue has been popular ,favorite for use in production cutting boards). Apply glue to one side of each strip and level it out with your finger or a putty knife production sure the entire outside has been covered.
Step 5
Carefully assembled the twelve strips to minimize cutting problems later (squaring over the top of the board will make the assembly easer with less sanding) and applied clamping pressure, add just sufficient pressure to pull the joints together. Also make sure the pencil lines are in alignment that you located on them in step #3. It's also a good idea to wipe away the excess glue that squeezed out during clamping; this makes the following step much easier.
Step 6:
Let the glue dry for at least one hour (follow the instructions for the glue you select to use). After removing bar clamps, sand the top and bottom of your board level with a belt sander. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then 120-grit and a final sanding with 150-grit using a random orbit sander. If you have way to a outside planer it would be best and faster to use it instead of the belt sander.
Step 7:
Now that you have your board glued together and cleaned up, take it to the table saw and using your miter gauge (make sure your gauge is quadrilateral with the blade) quadrilateral up one end of the board and then cut it off at 14" long.
Step 8:
Now that you have your board sanded level on the top and bottom outside and cut to distance take a router with a ball bearing round over bit (or cutter of your choice) and route the edges.
Step 9:
Sand all edges you just routed and give the entire board a good look over and sand any areas that need it.
Step 10:
Finishing, there are many food-safe finishes available but on my cutting boards, I use a board oil made from mineral oil bee's wax and lemon oil. This type of oil is thicker than suitable mineral oil helping to keep and safe the wood from moisture. Also, it does not form a hard film on the outside that would be damaged by normal use of a cutting board. You may ask how much oil do I use the rejoinder is never enough. When you oil your board let the oil soak in for 10 to 15 minutes. If the board soaks up the oil right away add more to outside and let stand, after 15 minutes remove any excess oil from the outside with a clean paper towel. This process will safe your board against moisture and expand the life of all your cutting boards.
I hope you have enjoyed this scheme and now have a very functional cutting board to use or give as a gift whichever the case it is something you made that will last a lifetime.
How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board
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Table Saw Maintenance Tips
If you own a table saw, it is prominent to understand that there is a safe bet estimate of maintenance involved when it comes to ensuring that the tool works properly. If the saw is not properly tuned and kept maintained, it will ensue in inefficiency. Additionally, it could ensue in security hazards. One of the first ways that you can tell if you need to perform maintenance on your table saw is if you notice that there are burn marks appearing on the wood as you cut. This typically indicates that the blade is not properly aligned.
If you find that it is time to align your blade, it may be best to replace the blade with a new unit. When installing, ensure that the miter slots are running parallel to the actual blade. You can do this by raising the blade as high as possible. Once this is done, rotate it and part the length that it travels up against the table that it is settled on. If you find that it is not properly aligned, you will need to make adjustments on the blade attachment. The next area of concern when maintaining your table saw is the throat plate.
In order to ensure that the throat plate is adjusted properly, you will need to lower the saw blade. You should then use a quadrilateral on the edge next to the miter slot. Once this is done, slide the quadrilateral across the plate. It should end up being at the level of the table that you are using. If it is not, you should make adjustments to the screws that are settled on the throat plate. If you perform these easy maintenance tips on your table saw, you will gawk that it adds to the broad efficiency that it operates, and that it does not pose any security hazards to you while operation.
Table Saw Maintenance Tips
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