How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board

How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board

Building a edge-grain cutting board has to be one of my beloved woodworking projects. This is truly a back to basics scheme and one of the most useful items to have in your kitchen. Building a practice cutting board not only makes you fill good but makes a great gift that will last a life time. I hope you enjoy Building this board as much as I did.

In this scheme you will build a face-grain Black Walnut cutting board 9 inches wide x 14 inches long x 1 ¼ inches thick. This scheme is designed for the person with basic tool and woodworking skills.

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Recommended Tools

Table Saw Router with ½" Round Over Bit Tape Measure Belt Sander Random Orbit Sander Pencil Bar clamps (4)

Materials Needed

Black Walnut, 3 pieces planed and right edged 6" wide x 15" long x ¾" thick, approximately (1.7) board feet. If you have other lumber you can substitute it for the Walnut. Waterproof Glue Such as Titebond Iii Sand Paper 80,120 and 150 grit Cutting Board Oil for Finishing

Safety First

When using power tools follow all directions related with that tool and all the time wear protection glasses and hearing protection.

Making a Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board

Step 1:

Cut your walnut lumber into 12 strips 1 ½" wide x 15" long on your table saw. Make sure you have a sharp blade that makes a level 90 degree cut, because you have to glue these strips together to make your cutting board.

Step 2:

Now take the twelve 1 ½" wide strips and place them beside each other production a board 9" wide by 15" long by 1 3/8" thick. It is also a good idea to turn the grain of each piece (end grain) 90-degrees to the one next to it, for both power and to heighten the look.

Step 3:

Now that you have the boards laid out like you want it take your pencil and make two wavy lines straight through the width of the board. This way you have a reference on each joint during the gluing process so you don't have to worry, do I have the strip turned the strict way. You can also amount each board if you like.

Step 4:

Next set up your bar clamps and get the glue ready (I propose you use Titebond glue this glue has been popular ,favorite for use in production cutting boards). Apply glue to one side of each strip and level it out with your finger or a putty knife production sure the entire outside has been covered.

Step 5

Carefully assembled the twelve strips to minimize cutting problems later (squaring over the top of the board will make the assembly easer with less sanding) and applied clamping pressure, add just sufficient pressure to pull the joints together. Also make sure the pencil lines are in alignment that you located on them in step #3. It's also a good idea to wipe away the excess glue that squeezed out during clamping; this makes the following step much easier.

Step 6:

Let the glue dry for at least one hour (follow the instructions for the glue you select to use). After removing bar clamps, sand the top and bottom of your board level with a belt sander. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then 120-grit and a final sanding with 150-grit using a random orbit sander. If you have way to a outside planer it would be best and faster to use it instead of the belt sander.

Step 7:

Now that you have your board glued together and cleaned up, take it to the table saw and using your miter gauge (make sure your gauge is quadrilateral with the blade) quadrilateral up one end of the board and then cut it off at 14" long.

Step 8:

Now that you have your board sanded level on the top and bottom outside and cut to distance take a router with a ball bearing round over bit (or cutter of your choice) and route the edges.

Step 9:

Sand all edges you just routed and give the entire board a good look over and sand any areas that need it.

Step 10:

Finishing, there are many food-safe finishes available but on my cutting boards, I use a board oil made from mineral oil bee's wax and lemon oil. This type of oil is thicker than suitable mineral oil helping to keep and safe the wood from moisture. Also, it does not form a hard film on the outside that would be damaged by normal use of a cutting board. You may ask how much oil do I use the rejoinder is never enough. When you oil your board let the oil soak in for 10 to 15 minutes. If the board soaks up the oil right away add more to outside and let stand, after 15 minutes remove any excess oil from the outside with a clean paper towel. This process will safe your board against moisture and expand the life of all your cutting boards.

I hope you have enjoyed this scheme and now have a very functional cutting board to use or give as a gift whichever the case it is something you made that will last a lifetime.

How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board

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Tile Saws - choosing the Right Saw For Your Cutting Job

Tile Saws - choosing the Right Saw For Your Cutting Job

Tile saws are used to cut flooring materials along with ceramic tile, porcelain, marble, granite and slate. Tile saws come in several separate types, however, they all share some basic similarities. All tile saws cut by abrading or scraping the covering of the material at high speed. This is ordinarily done with a solitaire blade. solitaire blades, as their name implies, have many tiny man made market ability solitaire suspended in a hardened metal powder. As the blade spins against the tile, the diamonds scrape away the material in a thin straight line, eventually cutting the tile in two. The blade builds up heat as it cuts. To keep the heat generated by the blade from over-heating the motor, the tile saw uses water to cool the blade as it cuts. solitaire blades can be supplanted as they wear out. Blades can also be changed on the saw allowing the saw user to hire separate blade types for cutting separate materials.

Bench Type Tile Saws

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These saws are small, light and portable. They feature a blade that protrudes up straight through a slot in the cutting surface. Blade sizes on these saws vary from 4 to 7 inches in diameter. Since these saws ordinarily do not have a table rail, there is no corporal limit to the size of tile they can cut. As a practical matter, cutting a tile that is larger than the size of the table is difficult. Directly below the blade is a water pan. As the blade spins, it travels straight through the water to cool. The cutting depth of the blade is ordinarily adjustable. Some saws also allow the angle of the blade to be adjusted for miter cuts. Because the blade turns directly on the motor shaft, these saws ordinarily have only one speed. Due to their size and easy design, these saws are relatively inexpensive, easy to use and a good option for homeowners.

7 inch Tile Saws with Stand

These saws are larger and heavier than bench top units and often come with a stand. The 7 inch diameter blade is mounted above the cutting table which slides on rollers or bearings. The tile remains stationary on the table as it is pushed into the blade. These saws use a pump ideas to cool the blade as opposed easy water immersion. They use a direct drive motor and often have accessories like laser cutting guides not found on smaller saws. These saws ordinarily can not handle tiles larger than 13" square. This type of saw is accepted for experienced homeowners or contractors finding for a cost sufficient saw that can be positively moved. Expect to pay 0 to 0 for a saw like this.

10 inch Tile Saws with Stand

These saws are large and heavy. They can weight 150 pounds or more and feature a belt driven motor. Many of these saws have multiple cutting speeds that make them more flexible for cutting a wide collection of material. These saws use a 10 inch diameter blade though some saws can use larger blades. Their bigger frame and cutting table means they can handle large format tiles. Some saws in this class can cut tiles up to 30 inches square. These saws use a water pump to cool the blade and feature multiple accessories for cutting angles and miters. This type of saw is the option for contractors and other heavy users. Prices range from 0 to several thousand dollars for this type of saw.

When selecting a tile saw, users should keep in mind what kind of execution they are going to need. By matching the size of their job, the size and type of material that needs to be cut and the funds available, the user will be sure to buy a tile saw that is just right for the job at hand.

Tile Saws - choosing the Right Saw For Your Cutting Job

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Evolution Power Tools FURY3 8-1/4-Inch Multipurpose Cutting Compound Sliding Miter Saw

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development Pvc Furniture - Measuring, Cutting and Gluing Techniques

development Pvc Furniture - Measuring, Cutting and Gluing Techniques

Making indoor/outdoor furniture and other projects with Pvc pipe is a very rewarding hobby. You'll be surprised at how many beneficial and money-saving items you can craft. For example... Home furnishings, toys, yard 'n organery things, shop equipment, games and on and on.

But, before you begin, here are some techniques that will make working with this low-cost, versatile material quicker and much easier.

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Measuring and Cutting

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1. Always cut the longest pieces first. That way, you'll be able to use more of the pipe.

2. Mark the length to be cut with a pencil.

3. Cut with a appropriate Pvc pipe cutter. The easiest to use is a uncomplicated ratchet-style cutter available at most hardware stores.

4. Line up the pencil mark with the pipe cutter blade, then cut on the inside edge of your mark.

Option: You can also cut the pipe with a hack saw. To make a level cut, place the pipe into a miter box. Then wedge a piece of scrap wood in the middle of the pipe and the side of the miter box to brace it securely. Cut on the inside edge of your pencil mark.

Note: When cutting plastic pipe with power equipment, wear a permissible dust mask or respirator to protect against particulate dust.

Then, remove any burrs with a medium flat file or rough sandpaper. Use a rat-tail file for the inside of the pipe, if needed.

Gluing

When construction Pvc projects, sometimes in haste we glue fittings that end up facing the wrong direction. Of course, this leads to ruined fittings, delays and, essentially, having to start over. It happens and it's frustrating. So here's how I solved the problem.

1. After cutting the lengths of pipe, "dry-fit" sections of your task as you progress. Make sure the lengths are accurate and the fittings are facing the permissible way. Use a carpenter's quadrilateral to guide you, if need be.

Tip: If you find an inserted pipe stubborn to remove, attach a vice-grip on the pipe with the Pvc fitting clamped in a bench vice, then separate by twisting. Or, use two vice-grips.

2. When you're clear the section you're working on is accurate then, using a yellow marking pencil, draw a line an inch, or so, along the pipe up and over each fitting. This serves as an easy alignment guide. Now take the section apart and lay out the pipe and fittings to put in order for gluing.

3. Swab a light estimate of glue to both the fitting and pipe, insert the pipe into the fitting, twist slightly and line up the yellow markings. Pvc glue (also called cement) dries fast, so you'll have to be quick. Hold it together for a few seconds. Then wipe off any excess glue immediately with an old rag, which will also remove the yellow line. By the way, since these are not plumbing projects, you do not have to use Pvc primer.

Tip: The gluing policy I just mentioned is the permissible way to fasten pipe to fitting. However, that said, I apply glue to the inside the fitting only. Use your own judgment, but in 25+ years none of my Pvc projects have ever come apart. Applying glue to both parts is, to me, overkill and wastes glue.

I mentioned that I swab the inside of the fitting only. Why? Because when you insert the pipe most of the glue flows to the inside. If you swab the pipe instead, the glue would ooze outwards toward your hands. My way is neater and cleaner.

4. Normally, the pipe slides into the fittings easily. For those time when you're not clear if the pipe has seated against the fitting wall, fast and gently tap the opposite end of the pipe with a dead-blow hammer or wooden mallet.

5. Work in sections. For example, when construction a chair I assemble the left side first then the right side. Finally, I procure the connecting lengths of pipe to both sides.

6. If, when production a Pvc chair, you use sling material for the back and seat, be faithful not to glue one side of the task until after you've attached the material to the frame.

But what if you don't want to use Pvc glue? For some projects (example, doll furniture) applying one tiny spot of super glue to the inside of the fitting will do just fine. I don't advise it, however, for projects that will get heavy use.

Also, I've had good luck with polyurethane glues, which can give you abundance of time (up to 4 hours) to adjust your task before it cures. So far, the two projects for gardening I've tested have held up well. Again, you don't want to use it for heavy-use projects like swing-sets, chairs, and so on.

Mastering these uncomplicated techniques for working with Pvc pipe will ensure your Pvc furniture and other projects will turn out perfectly.

development Pvc Furniture - Measuring, Cutting and Gluing Techniques

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