How to grind the Blades on a Chainsaw
You may think that once you have bought your chainsaw, the real work is about to begin. That may be true but it's not only in the organery or your lawn that you will need to think about the tough work. Chainsaws often need maintenance and while you may not be customary with this work, it's foremost that you come to be comfortable with it. Sharpening the blades of the chainsaw is foremost because it will not only save you time and attempt when going to do the big jobs, but it can also keep you safe from injury too.
The first thing you will need to know when sharpening the blades of your chainsaw is the size of your saw's chain. This is because you will need to buy a rotary grindstone or a chainsaw file to edge your blade and these are sold in dissimilar sizes, corresponding to the dissimilar sizes of chainsaw blades.
The chain then needs to be cleaned thoroughly. There are many cleaners that can be purchased for this purpose but if you find them too costly, a uncomplicated mineral water will also do the job well. It's foremost that when you're cleaning your chain that you do not saturate any part of the chainsaw. This is because it can get into the plastic housing of the unit or the motor, and can cause a lot of damage to these parts. As you're cleaning your chain, look for parts that are broken or damaged. These parts can't be repaired but having them fly off while the chainsaw is in use is extremely dangerous. Any broken pieces of the chain should be immediately taken off and supplanted with new bits.
Sharpening the blades of a chainsaw means that the chainsaw needs to be garage and supported. Laying the chainsaw on a flat exterior may be all that the chainsaw needs to get this done by clamping it in a vice so that the blade remains perfectly still is the best option. Next, you need to find the foremost cutter, which is the shortest cutter on the blade. Some chainsaws don't have a foremost cutter, leaving all the cutters the same length. If this is the case, the filing can begin everywhere however it will make it easier if you can lightly mark the first cutter that you filed so that you don't re-file it.
The file can then be placed into the space on the front of the cutter. This is the first tooth that lays flat against the chain and the file should be just about even with the tooth once it's placed inside the empty notch beside the tooth. Then, keeping the file at the same angle as the tooth, moderately slide the file in a twisting motion. This will ensure that anyone you are filing off will not fall to the inside of the blade. You can then do this with every tooth on that side of the blade. After one side is finished, the chainsaw can be turned around so that the unfiled teeth on the other side can also be filed. These teeth will be angled differently than the teeth on the other side so be sure to adjust your blade file as well.
How to grind the Blades on a Chainsaw
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Ipe Hardwood Floors: Awesome or Not?
If you know anything about Ipe hardwood, it is truly an astonishing wood. It has a Janka rating of over 3600, production it one of the densest woods that are currently ready on the hardwood flooring market. Ipe has a lot of very inevitable characteristics, but it also has its issues!
It is so dense that with even a marginal stop applied to the surface, most spills will pool on the top rather than penetrate below. And it survives the abuse from the even a 100 pound sheep dog with minuscule wear marks.
Ipe Hardwood Flooring is referred to by many names depending on the country of origin and who is production the flooring. Brand names like Ironwood(Tm) and Pau Lope(Tm) are base as are "consumer names" like Brazilian Walnut. For some reason, North American retailers think referring to it as a walnut will make it more understandable to today's consumers.
Ipe is beyond doubt a lump of many trees from the Bignoniaceae family (Tabebuia, spp) that share a base appearance and physical characteristics. They are all dense and rather straight grained. Some pieces look quite similar to teak. It is very defiant to decay, termite and dry insect attack, although this is not considerable (I hope) when choosing ipe as interior flooring. It is Very fire defiant as well.
Colour range varies from a medium straw with olive green overtones to a reddish brown with darker black streaks base in some boxes of ipe hardwood. Flooring samples can then have a very large range of colours. Make sure that you understand this, and don't buy, expecting colour uniformity. It is always best, if possible to visit a buyer that has had this type of flooring in use for a estimate of years. You can then judge not only the appeal of the colouring but also the durability of the finish.
For premise it will wish a very good quality grade of carbide blade on your miter saw to even exertion any trimming to length. If you have a large expanse of ipe flooring to cover, a second blade made be necessary. All holes, like those that you need to install for the first few rows of flooring will have to be drilled close to the size of the finishing nail you intend to use, otherwise you will split the wood. Experiment first, to save a few pieces of ipe flooring.
Ipe Hardwood Floors: Awesome or Not?
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How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board
Building a edge-grain cutting board has to be one of my beloved woodworking projects. This is truly a back to basics scheme and one of the most useful items to have in your kitchen. Building a practice cutting board not only makes you fill good but makes a great gift that will last a life time. I hope you enjoy Building this board as much as I did.
In this scheme you will build a face-grain Black Walnut cutting board 9 inches wide x 14 inches long x 1 ¼ inches thick. This scheme is designed for the person with basic tool and woodworking skills.
Recommended Tools
Table Saw Router with ½" Round Over Bit Tape Measure Belt Sander Random Orbit Sander Pencil Bar clamps (4)
Materials Needed
Black Walnut, 3 pieces planed and right edged 6" wide x 15" long x ¾" thick, approximately (1.7) board feet. If you have other lumber you can substitute it for the Walnut. Waterproof Glue Such as Titebond Iii Sand Paper 80,120 and 150 grit Cutting Board Oil for Finishing
Safety First
When using power tools follow all directions related with that tool and all the time wear protection glasses and hearing protection.
Making a Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board
Step 1:
Cut your walnut lumber into 12 strips 1 ½" wide x 15" long on your table saw. Make sure you have a sharp blade that makes a level 90 degree cut, because you have to glue these strips together to make your cutting board.
Step 2:
Now take the twelve 1 ½" wide strips and place them beside each other production a board 9" wide by 15" long by 1 3/8" thick. It is also a good idea to turn the grain of each piece (end grain) 90-degrees to the one next to it, for both power and to heighten the look.
Step 3:
Now that you have the boards laid out like you want it take your pencil and make two wavy lines straight through the width of the board. This way you have a reference on each joint during the gluing process so you don't have to worry, do I have the strip turned the strict way. You can also amount each board if you like.
Step 4:
Next set up your bar clamps and get the glue ready (I propose you use Titebond glue this glue has been popular ,favorite for use in production cutting boards). Apply glue to one side of each strip and level it out with your finger or a putty knife production sure the entire outside has been covered.
Step 5
Carefully assembled the twelve strips to minimize cutting problems later (squaring over the top of the board will make the assembly easer with less sanding) and applied clamping pressure, add just sufficient pressure to pull the joints together. Also make sure the pencil lines are in alignment that you located on them in step #3. It's also a good idea to wipe away the excess glue that squeezed out during clamping; this makes the following step much easier.
Step 6:
Let the glue dry for at least one hour (follow the instructions for the glue you select to use). After removing bar clamps, sand the top and bottom of your board level with a belt sander. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then 120-grit and a final sanding with 150-grit using a random orbit sander. If you have way to a outside planer it would be best and faster to use it instead of the belt sander.
Step 7:
Now that you have your board glued together and cleaned up, take it to the table saw and using your miter gauge (make sure your gauge is quadrilateral with the blade) quadrilateral up one end of the board and then cut it off at 14" long.
Step 8:
Now that you have your board sanded level on the top and bottom outside and cut to distance take a router with a ball bearing round over bit (or cutter of your choice) and route the edges.
Step 9:
Sand all edges you just routed and give the entire board a good look over and sand any areas that need it.
Step 10:
Finishing, there are many food-safe finishes available but on my cutting boards, I use a board oil made from mineral oil bee's wax and lemon oil. This type of oil is thicker than suitable mineral oil helping to keep and safe the wood from moisture. Also, it does not form a hard film on the outside that would be damaged by normal use of a cutting board. You may ask how much oil do I use the rejoinder is never enough. When you oil your board let the oil soak in for 10 to 15 minutes. If the board soaks up the oil right away add more to outside and let stand, after 15 minutes remove any excess oil from the outside with a clean paper towel. This process will safe your board against moisture and expand the life of all your cutting boards.
I hope you have enjoyed this scheme and now have a very functional cutting board to use or give as a gift whichever the case it is something you made that will last a lifetime.
How to Make a Black Walnut Edge Grain Cutting Board
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Table Saw Maintenance Tips
If you own a table saw, it is prominent to understand that there is a safe bet estimate of maintenance involved when it comes to ensuring that the tool works properly. If the saw is not properly tuned and kept maintained, it will ensue in inefficiency. Additionally, it could ensue in security hazards. One of the first ways that you can tell if you need to perform maintenance on your table saw is if you notice that there are burn marks appearing on the wood as you cut. This typically indicates that the blade is not properly aligned.
If you find that it is time to align your blade, it may be best to replace the blade with a new unit. When installing, ensure that the miter slots are running parallel to the actual blade. You can do this by raising the blade as high as possible. Once this is done, rotate it and part the length that it travels up against the table that it is settled on. If you find that it is not properly aligned, you will need to make adjustments on the blade attachment. The next area of concern when maintaining your table saw is the throat plate.
In order to ensure that the throat plate is adjusted properly, you will need to lower the saw blade. You should then use a quadrilateral on the edge next to the miter slot. Once this is done, slide the quadrilateral across the plate. It should end up being at the level of the table that you are using. If it is not, you should make adjustments to the screws that are settled on the throat plate. If you perform these easy maintenance tips on your table saw, you will gawk that it adds to the broad efficiency that it operates, and that it does not pose any security hazards to you while operation.
Table Saw Maintenance Tips
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Types of Chisels
Your chisel can be one of your simplest, yet most beneficial woodworking tools. Its simplistic construct makes it easy to cope and can help you to swiftly solve a range of problems. It can be used to remove big chunks of wood, metal or stone. Or, it can be used in finishing and to generate intricate details. There are many types of chisels and each has a range of functions.
In general, there are two types, ones that you hit with a mallet and ones that are intended for paring or shaving. Most modern chisels will have a larger flat head on the cope if they are intended for pounding with a mallet, or they'll have instructions imprinted on the cope or on the package. Older mallets can be a slight harder to tell. Most will have a metal ring around the cope near the butt of the chisel.
A slick is never intended for pounding. A slick is a chisel that has a blade wider than most, two to four inches wide, and is intended for pushing, not pounding. The cope will be more slender. The blade and the cope will not be perfectly straight, but should have a slight angle so that when you're pushing the blade, it will be flat against your work while the cope is high adequate for you to fit your hand. A slick can be legitimately long, around two feet, and can be steadied against the forearm or shoulder. These are mostly used by timber framers and ship builders.
Japanese chisels are very popular because of their strength. The blades have layers of two kinds of steel hand pounded together. They may even be laminated by hand over a charcoal fire. Chisel makers are respected artists and sometimes the descendants of sword makers. They often use ebony or other hardwoods that have a unique color or wood grain, and they often sign their work. Japanese chisels are known for maintaining their sharpness. They can legitimately be identified by the hollow back on the blade.
Japanese chisel makers hollow out the back side so that it is easier for the owner to articulate the flatness of the back. The back side of a chisel needs to be completely flat so that it can slide over surfaces. A high gloss shine is preferable. Any convex, or high points, will cause the chisel to rock and give uneven results. By carving out a concave section in the back center of the blade, there is less metal to keep flattened and less outside area to push against your work.
Chisels can be many feet long or look a lot like a nail. Some are so delicate that they can carve on something as small as a toothpick or tiny dowel. Smaller dowels can be put on a lathe and carved out with a tiny chisel to generate wooden toy parts, such as doll house spindles or other decorative pieces. If you're not sure which type of chisel to use for your woodworking project, consult a expert or crusade instructions for clues. With a slight trial and error, you can heighten your chisel skills and generate gorgeous wooden furniture, wooden toys, and more.
Types of Chisels
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The Profile of a Tape measure
What is tape measure? A tape part or measuring tape is a ribbon of cloth, plastic, or metal with linear-measure markings, such as steel tape measure. Surveyors use tape measures in lengths on the order of hectometers. It is a convenient measuring tool. Its flexibility allows for a part of great distance to be nothing else but carried in pocket or toolkit and permits one to part nearby curves or corners.
How to read a tape measure?
Tape measures are often used to give a standardized distance for objects which are of an irregular shape. But how to reed it is big qoute for layman.
Firstly, you must know a tape part blade is marked both in inches and in feet. Each foot is divided into 12 inches. The end hook always appears to be loose. This special construct slide a distance equal to its own thickness so both inside and outside make sure the supervene is accurate. The upper scale is increased by 1/16-inch, so it reads 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, and 1-inch. The lowest scale reads in 1/16-inch increments as well, so it reads 1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch, and so on. So if you find a 8 lines in an inch that mean the scale is increased by 2/16-inch. And likewise, if you have 4 lines , or 4/16" you have a quarter inch and so on.
For example
1. The longest line in the inch is in the middle. This is the half-inch mark and there is only one.
2. The next shortest line is the 1/4" (one quarter of an inch) inch mark and there are only two of these.
3. The third shortest line is the 1/8" (one eighth of an inch) mark and there are four of these.
4. The fourth shortest is the 1/16" (one sixteenth of an inch) mark and there are eight of these.
5. Some rulers will go a step further, down to 1/32" but this is often more strict that most woodworking cuts need to be.other measurements
Tips of tape measure
When you use the tape measure, there are some qoute you must notice.
1: Not all tape part have same unit. All tape measures included linear-measure markings, with many together with both imperial and metric units. Imperial measurements are those ordinarily used in the United States, together with feet, pounds, and seconds. Metric units, on the other hand, are those used in the metric system, ordinarily used by many countries outside of the United States.
2: When you use the tape measure, pull the tape right out of its case with one hand.
3: Do not forget to look at the back of the tape which have some useful data about parameters. Because not all tapes are created equal.
4: Note the markings on the tape.On the typical ruler the basic (smallest) unit of estimation is 1/16". If you count the distance between two inch marks (one inch) you will find sixteen lines. This is because an inch is 16/16th of an inch long. Studs read out at 16-inch on center, and are ordinarily marked in red. Trusses or floor joists read out at 2-foot on town and are ordinarily marked in black.
5: Line up the 1-inch mark with one end of the object being measured. Sometimes the metal hook becomes loose and can cause your estimation to be off by up to 1/16 of an inch. Be sure to deduct 1 inch from the measurement.
6: Slide the thumb lock down to hold the tape in place which can make the supervene more accurate.
The Profile of a Tape measure
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Who Makes the Best Miter Saw for the Buck?
Who Makes the Best Saw?
There are a quite a few saws for sale at your local hardware store or even on-line; from manufacturers such as Bosch, Ryobi, DeWalt, Makita and Black & Decker. Also the many types listed below, there are separate sizes: 7 1/2 inch, 10 inch and 12 inch. They also may come with supplementary features like a light, laser guide or a stand. Finally, you should think about the price and which can contribute the greatest value for its functionality and features.
So Tell Me...Who Does Make the Best Miter Saw?
For the professionals - I will suggest the Makita Ls1216Lx. This 12 inch blade saw comes adequate with a laser guide for precision cutting and a steady stand that allows it to be both portable and ready to work when you are. A new one goes for about 0, which may seem a bit expensive until you have absolutely used one a join times and then you may wonder how you ever got along without one.
For the do-it-yourselfers - because the functionality and price, you plainly cannot beat the Makita Ls1040 10 inch combination miter saw. It normally retails for just under 0, but seems to dip in price colse to Father's day and at end-of-the-summer sales. Its 10 inch blade should take care of any job colse to your home and since it is a combination miter saw, you will be able to make precision cuts both vertically and horizontally.
What Makes Up A Miter Saw
It is primarily used in production exact degree angle cuts in masonry, wood, concrete or even metal. Prior to electrical tools (and often today for those of us on a budget) a miter box and a hand saw were used to make the exact degree angle cuts. These cuts are necessary for bringing together two or more pieces of material in a flush manner. Therefore, a power miter saw is merely a bringing together of the circular power saw and a miter box. It often provides exacting and astounding results in a very easy-to-use yet excellent way. A join of the regular uses for this type of saw are crown molding and floor boards; each in need of meeting up flush at their joints.
What Are the separate Types of Miter Saws??
There are some positive and separate types of miter saws:
Standard - has a fixed vertical blade that can pivot, which creates horizontal angle cuts Compound - has a rotating blade that can pivot both horizontally and vertically, which can generate angle cuts in dual planes Sliding combination - is the same as the combination saw with sliding arms added to allow a much broader cut Dual combination - add to the sliding combination saw with an supplementary feature of tilting both left and right when production cuts.
When Did They Get Developed?
A version of the by hand miter saw has been with us for a join thousand years. The very first power miter saw showed up in the early 70's and had exiguous capability. The sliding combination saw didn't appear until the later part of the 1980's and it helped turn the do-it-yourself firm by allowing people to generate their own pro finding results.
Who Makes the Best Miter Saw for the Buck?
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high-priced Tile Saws With Water Pump
The group of expensive tile saws will probably cost up to some hundred dollars or maybe more. But do not hold back or regret your decision as these tile saws are probably there to serve you a high potential motor and blades. Majority of these saws will have the blade and motor situated above the surface and adequate with a tray to comprise water. Besides, they often come with a substantially large cutting surface that can slide along and underneath the blade of the saw. Industrialized models may also furnish fences to make level or angled cuts.
However, in your crusade for a good and suitable tile saw, be sure to take into consideration the tile saw water pump. Regularly these saws are more costly as they have a water pump to push up water up into the tile saw blade, primarily for cooling purposes. Tile saws with the nearnessy of water pumps are Regularly larger and adequate with more fine motor, commonly between one to three or four horsepower.
There are other less expensive tile saws that apply the understanding of delivering water via a water hose from the water reserved supply to the vicinity of the blade. The moment you turn on the saw to be used, you should also remember to switch on the valve for the water to flow which could be rather troublesome. Your blade might also be heated up should you forget to turn the valve on. In addition, the nearnessy of a organery hose on the saw is nothing else but not feasible and may cause unwanted inconvenience. Thus the saying that it is wise to have a tile saw that comes with a water pump, or at least one with elective water pump.
To ensure that you purchase the best tile saw water pump to aid in your renewal project, you should perform some shopping and inspect beforehand. You can visit your local home correction store or check out the tile saws online. The tile saw will be worth your investment as you will inspect real professional results as well as save ample of time, also preventing tiles breakage and faulty.
high-priced Tile Saws With Water Pump
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Jet Table Saws enumerate
Jet table saws are some of the most respected table saws in the business. They build good potential machines, and customers are ordinarily favorably impressed. In this delineate we're going to talk about three of Jet's most popular saws, the Jet 10-inch cabinet saw, the Jet 10-inch workshop table saw, and the Jet 15 Amp benchtop table saw. We'll look at each of these in turn.
Jet 10-inch Cabinet Saw
A cabinet saw is designed for fine woodworking and the Jet cabinet saw is no exception. This saw boasts a 27 x 40 inch table, a left-tilting blade, a 50-inch total rip capacity, and 3 horsepower, 230 volt motor. In the buyer reviews we surveyed, customers seemed more than happy with this single saw by Jet. Jet undercuts their competition on price, but over delivers in value.
Jet 10-inch Workshop Table Saw
Jet's workshop table saw is designed to be used on the job site, not in the shop. It's basically what we call a contractor's saw. That is, it can be moved from job site to job site with relatively limited effort. It's accurate adequate for on site cabinetry. But probably not accurate adequate for fine woodworking. Again Jet has created a very fine product for the price.
Jet 15 Amp Benchtop Table Saw
Jet's benchtop table saw is indubitably as good a value as any other saw, but since there are more manufacturers in the lower price range, Jet doesn't just run away with the field on this. They're getting a lot of competition from DeWalt and Bosch, among others. That sais, Jet's benchtop saw is indubitably a good deal and an perfect saw.
There's obviously a lot to know about table saws. For one thing, you have benchtop saws, with no legs, and which have to be settled on a outside to use, contractor saws which are transportable and have legs, and cabinet saws, which are designed to be left in place. Obviously, Jet makes a very nice saw in all three categories.
Jet Table Saws enumerate
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Porter Cable Router quote - 690Lr
We have always liked the Porter Cable Routers, but they still need to go straight through our power tool communicate steps. The first thing we noticed was the case. When we opened the case, the router was a tight fit. We normally like a puny room for bits or other items that belong with the tool. We took the router out, unpacked everything, and tried to put it back. Obviously it fits back into the case, but there is no room for any other connected items.
At first we though it might be heavier than the weight of 8lbs. After picking it up we found that it was highly light because of the machined aluminum case and base it is made from. This is good news! You want a lighter router because you don't want to fight the weight of the tool. Heavier tools create more force when used, and this can wear a user out.
The 1/4" and the 1/2" is a nice feature because most workers have both sizes of router bits. Putting the router bits in place is a breeze. The router comes with two wrenches that will let you tighten or loosen the collet. This is much easier if you set the router on a workbench instead of tying to hold on to the router. We were a puny skeptical of the auto release theory that keeps the bits from frozen up in the tool. Anyone who has ever had this happens knows it is very annoying. After setting the router up, the rest was a breeze. There is a t-bolt that will let you adjust the height of the router, this is a snap. Once you have the router at the allowable height, you can fine tune the height using the micrometer adjustment. This is just a ring you turn with your hand. You can adjust it up to 1/128"
We started out with some sharp bits and ran it straight through pine. The router ate straight through that easily. The router just laughed at us. We went to a harder wood, oak, and then walnut. Again, it ran straight through these without heating up. Yes, we did have a sharp blade, but as a craftsman you should know that having a sharp blade is highly important. Well, we were bored with this testing rather quick because the router was handling all with ease. So we ran the router blade over a bunch of plywood, hoping the blade would dull down from the glue. Well, the router ran straight through that test fine. The bits didn't dull as fast as we had hoped, so we filed them dull and tried the test again. straight through the pine, the router ran fine. Then the oak and Walnut caused the motor to fight a puny for some air. We did have a big bit and had it set deep. We took that bit out of the tool and it did slide out with no effort, so the auto release theory seemed to work fine, but we weren't done testing it yet!
We put the bit back in and tightened it as much as possible. We then beat on the side of the bit to jam it in there. We also dropped the router level on the top of the bit and then gave it a concentrate whacks with a hammer. We basically did all inherent to make sure the bit would not come out, even though no one in their right mind would do all these things. Next, we loosened the collet, and this time the bit didn't come right out. We did wiggle it, and pulled with a pair of forceps and with that, the router bit came out. This told us two things. First, under general wear and tear, the auto release theory should work well, and the bits should not get stuck. Second, once the bit is in the router, it will stay in the router. You shouldn't have any worries about it arrival out, unless you want it to.
All the other tests we ran the router straight through passed with flying colors. We dropped the tool a concentrate different times and it held up fine. The max height we used for the drops was 7 feet. I was pleasantly surprised that the base of plastic didn't crack.
With a concentrate of tricks, this router was very easy to turn into a table router for use on a table saw extension. This makes the tool that much more attractive.
After using the tool for a long time, our arms felt fine. We did not touch any vibrations what so ever.
Over all, our power tool communicate for the Porter Cable router is Excellent. We were highly impressed with this power tool. This router has great power and splendid features. Any craftsman should be proud to have this router in his/her wood shop.
Pro's
Good power, Comes with 1/4" and 1/2" collets, will also accept 3/8", Depth Adjustment, Seal power switch
Con's
Case is very small - tight fit for the router
Porter Cable Router quote - 690Lr
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Hitachi P12Ra Planer - The Workhorse of 12" Planers
The Hitachi P12Ra Planer Jointer combo is ranked in the top ten out of nearly 200 in the 12" conveyable planer's class on the market. The marvelous 15 amp motor makes 20,800 cuts per dinky at 10,400 rpm. This lightweight conveyable planer has all the power needed to perform any task, with the self-acting feed rate at 26 feet per dinky it doesn't waste time getting it done. Another great advantage to this engine is it only requires 110 volts to crank it up to, but take note I would propose using a larger gauge extension cord especially for long distances from your power outlet.
The adjustable bed on the Hitachi P12Ra planer, the surface that the wood slides on is rock solid, it will carry a load, stay straight, quadrilateral and study for a lifetime of service, add to that the what I believe to be a stainless steel surface/cover on top and you have a virtually maintenance free bed.
The large 6" jointer that comes with it completes the deal. You get a super smooth, perfect surfaced board advent out the other end of this engine that creates a seamless joint every time. I would propose getting the plate extenders for this Jointer as it will enable you to true up longer boards with ease. I can't begin to tell you how many linear feet of lumber I have passed straight through this engine with indubitably no assistance problems.
I have owned used and abused this planer/jointer now for over 25 years with only very dinky assistance needed. All I ever had to do to it is put a belt on it but of policy that was because of operator error. I found that if you will keep the blades sharp and make sure there aren't any unusually thick spots on the piece of wood you are feeding into the planer you probably would never have to replace the belt. If you will keep an extra set of sharp blades on hand you won't have to stop this engine for anything.
That brings me to the serviceability of this great tool, if you ever have to work on it you won't have any problems development any repairs such as changing blades, changing brushes or any type of maintenance that is required. This planer is indubitably serviceable by the user of it, it's just that simple. To be honest the only real problem I ever encountered is the position in which they put the power switch. They put it on top where the dust from the jointer can indubitably get in it and cause it to malfunction, other than that it is a loud beast especially in small areas so please wear ear protection though it is always advisable with power tools along with eye protection. These are my only 2 issues or problems I have from over 25 years of great assistance with this Hitachi planer.
I would like to add that I have a relatively small shop and if you have the same problem or limitations this tool is very very recommended. With over 32 years of woodworking experience working with all types of woodworking tools you would think it gives me the experience and authority to objectively review the extensive operation of this great conveyable planer.
Hitachi P12Ra Planer - The Workhorse of 12" Planers
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Milwaukee Sawzall Power Tool recite
This is one of my favorite power tools and that was one of the reasons we did a power tool spin on the Milwaukee Sawzall. I truly love everything about this and can not find one item to complain about. The Milwaukee Sawzall is a power tool used to destroy, so it is even more prominent to build a good ability tool as more accidents happen during tear down. The body is put through more stress and is harder on the body, which causes fatigue.
First impressions when picking up the Milwaukee Sawzall power tool is "Solid". It has some good weight to it which helps in this type of application, 8.9 lbs, so its not too heavy. The rubber grips feel nice in your hands which means your hands will stay in place and not slide around. The variable speed operate is on the lower part of the "D" deal with which is nice because your not going to accidentally change speeds. Another item we noticed from the start was the balance of the tool. The balance of this tool was perfect. Some weight in the front which will help the tool cut, while the back was each to move around. The Quick-Lok feature is one of the best ideas to come along in a long time. Since this tool is used to destroy, chances are you will ruin the power cord. Instead of having to open the tool up to change the power cord, you can just disconnect it and put a new power cord on. I don't know how many cords I have ruined over the years, then my tool will sit on the side line until I get time to change the cord. Not with this tool, just plug and go.
We ran this tool through a number of test including, cutting 4x4, compel ties, a lot of black pipe, plaster walls and more. We tried to get the tool to bog down by trying to wedge the tool blade, use an old blade, putting dust in the motor and more. We could not get this tool to stop or even bog down. Yes you can tell the contrast in the middle of a sharp blade and dull blade, but that doesn't have to do with the tool. We plan we could get the tool to slow down with the compel tie because it is wood covered in Creosote and has a steel s bar in the middle of the tie. We did rip through a combine blades, but partly because we tried a wood blade for the metal because when you get to the middle of a tie, you are cutting metal and wood. We ended up ripping through the town with a metal blade and a small number of orbital action. Another nice feature is you can adjust how much orbital operation you want. The collar that holds the blade is also an awesome feature. With all we put this tool through, the blade never slipped out. We even put the blade in a vice and used a pulley principles to try and rip the blade out. We ended up lifting the work bench up in the air. So we had two guys sit on the table and still couldn't get the blade to budge. After all this when we did take the blade out, I tough it might be hard to get out, but nope, just a easy turn and it came right out like it was supposed to. All in all we could not get this power tool to bog down at all, we did rip through a lot of blades, but that's about it.
After using the tool for a long time, our arms felt fine. We were not fitful due to balance or vibrations. Again this is one of the biggest keys to a tool of this type.
Over all our power tool spin of the Milwaukee Sawzall is very impressed at this thinkable, power tool. This is a must own for whatever who plans on buying a reciprocating saw. There are a lot of other great manufactures out there, but the Milwaukee Sawzall truly has some very nice unique features.
Pro's
Where to start. I love everything about this tool. The Quick-Lok, the blade system, the balance, the feel.
Con's
I de facto can not think of any negatives to this tool. If I want to get picky, I guess the only con I can find is they should contain some more blades.
Professional Power Tool Guide Rating
Value -
We believe the value for this tool is incredible, one of the best values around. When you collate what this reciprocating saw has compared to the competition, this is hands down one of the best tools. Milwaukee unique Quick-Lok and blade lock make this tool even a great value compared to its counter parts.
Performance -
The carrying out of the Milwaukee Sawzall is incredible. This is only an 11 amp which is more than adequate power, I could only image the 13 amp. We tried to bind the tool to get the motor to stop and couldn't do it. If you are not retention on tight, it will probably come out of your hand before you can get the motor to shut down.
Ease of Use -
The Milwaukee Sawzall is very easy to use. The variable speed and orbital operation are easy to reach and adjust. The blade lock is also easy to use and shape out. There are not tight parts that get stuck or need a lot of muscle to use.
Features -
The Milwaukee Sawzall has all the prominent features from a slow to very fast variable speed action. The orbital is truly orbital, where some reciprocating saws will only orbital a limited bit, the Milwaukee has adequate operation to make a contrast for cutting wood.
Balance -
This tool de facto takes two hand to use and has a very nice balance. Did have any arm or body tiredness due to the tool. The workers front hand is exquisite for retention the tool while the back hand is de facto used for adjusting angles.
Feel -
This is an very solid power tool. When you pick the tool up in your hands you can feel it right from the start. Cutting wood, metal or whatever else, the low vibrations (Compared to other reciprocating saws) it a lot easier in your hands.
Overall -
This is a must own power tool for anyone. If you are a expert or home user, I wouldn't think any other reciprocating saw. The Milwaukee Sawzall is hands down the best reciprocating saw we have used. When this tool was designed they though about everything from development the cord easy to change to the quick change blade principles that truly locks the blade in place. I could go on and on about how much I love this power tool. If you all ready own it, you understand me. If you don't own this tool, once you try, you will se why I love this power tool and used this as our first power tool review.
Milwaukee Sawzall Power Tool recite
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 Exclusive Laser Marker System ensures precision cuts. View larger. |
 Dial in precise angles with micro-miter and micro-bevel adjustment knobs. |
 Backlit LCD displays miter and bevel readings. View larger. |
The bevel scale ranges from zero to 45 degrees to the left and right, allowing your material to stay in place while you flip the saw head to make opposing cuts. After your major bevel angle is secured, a micro-bevel adjustment knob can be used to dial in a precise angle, while positive stops allow for quick and easy measurements and settings.
The 12-inch TCT saw blade (included) makes easy work of delicate trim and other woodwork, and the pivoting fence raises a height of 4-11/16 inches to allow for accurate vertical cutting of crown molding and other large workpieces.
Compact Slide System Requires Zero Clearance
With its revolutionary compact slide system, the C12LSH requires no rear clearance like other sliding saws. Hitachi's patented fixed rail system allows the saw head to glide smoothly along twin rails, which stay put and do not protrude to the rear of the saw. The result is a sliding saw that can be operated on a small work surface that has minimal rear clearance, such as up against a wall.
This innovative new feature is just one of the reasons that the Hitachi C12LSH was named one of the "Top 10 Innovative Tools for 2006" by Workbench Magazine, February 2006.
Laser Marker Technology and LCD for Perfect Cuts
Hitachi equipped the C12LSH with its exclusive Laser Marker System, which can be activated before the blade is in motion for exact alignment and predictable blade placement. The laser marker is easily adjustable to the left or right of the cut mark to suit your preferences, simply line up the laser with your mark on the workpiece, and the saw blade will make an exact cut along the laser guide. As long as your measurements are right, your cuts will be, too!
The C12LSH also includes an innovative LCD (liquid crystal display) that takes the guesswork out of miter and bevel readings and saves time by eliminating costly mistakes. This top-mounted digital scale swivels to provide clear and accurate miter and bevel readings from any angle.
Chock-Full of User-Friendly Features
The C12LSH has plenty of features to help you make the perfect cut the first time. To start, it has a powerful 15-amp motor that generates a no-load speed of up to 3,800 RPM to smoothly and easily cut through even the toughest hardwoods.
For precise, safe cutting, a fixed splinter guard increases safety and reduces tear-out for clean, finished cuts, and a comfortable vertical handle with a vibration-reducing elastomer grip prevents slippage and keeps you in control at all times.
The C12LSH also includes a dust bag that minimizes accumulation of dust and particles in your both your workspace and the saw's interior components, keeping your jobsite clean and prolonging the life of the tool. An added bonus, easily accessible carbon brushes will help your saw perform for the long term.
The Hitachi C12LSH measures 23-7/16 x 36-5/8 x 27-15/16 inches and weighs 66.1 pounds. Durably built, this tool is backed by an industry-leading five year warranty.
About Hitachi: A Tradition of Innovation
Hitachi Power Tools (Hitachi Koki USA, Ltd.) provides professional-grade power tools for a variety of applications, including woodwork, metalwork, concrete, drilling, cutting, and fastening. Hitachi is a leader in power tool research and development and has achieved many firsts in the power tool industry, including creating the first-ever sliding compound miter saw to combine the capacity of a radial arm saw and the convenience of a miter saw. Today, Hitachi continues the tradition of innovation and engineering with new features in addition to classic quality.
What's in the Box
C12LSH Sliding Dual Compound Miter Saw with Laser Marker and Digital Display, 12-inch, 60-tooth TCT saw blade, dust bag, vise assembly, and box wrench.
 The C12LSH was named one of the "Top 10 Innovative Tools for 2006" by Workbench Magazine, February 2006. |
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How To Use A Miter Saw - Things Every Sawer Should Be Aware Of
The mitre saw is a assuredly great power tool to have. The mitre saw is able to furnish you with the quality to make accurate, angled cuts on the edge of most materials. In this article, I will go straight through some of the major things to look out for when using a miter saw.
Miter saws are available in three distinct types, namely standard, mixture and sliding miter saws.
The approved mitre saw is a basic mitre saw that will make a 90 degree cut though materials at angles between 45 degrees to left and right. The blade is kept aligned by use of an angle scale and locking device.
The mixture mitre saw is able to tilt the blade to a specific angle to generate a mixture cut, hence the name.
The sliding miter saw is able to slide on a horizontal arm. The saw can be pushed straight through a material thus allowing a much larger and wider piece of materials to be cut
One will need to conclude how much power a saw will need agreeing to the job they will be working on. The power of a toll is measured in an amperage rating or horsepower. approved miter saws ordinarily control at 12 to 15 amps and 120 volts. However, if you want much larger stock to be cut, you might need to think market drive machinery that will be much larger and may want modified wiring.
When looking at buying a miter saw, one will obviously need to think one's own budget. Miter saws can range from 0 to 00. If it is a tool that you see yourself using on a regular basis, it might be worth it invest in a more expensive, quality saw.
When working on a project, one must ensure that there will be sufficient space to work in. You might need a work bench or you might even need to work on the floor when it comes to very long materials.
It is very leading to go straight through the miter saws instructional guide or booklet. There might be leading information with regards to security precautions that you might to be aware of before beginning to use the tool.
You need to familiarise yourself with the distinct parts of the saw. You should find the following on most miter saws: angle indicator, blade guard, power switch, locking mechanism used for keeping the saw in position when not in use
Before turning the saw on, you should raise and lower the saw a few times. This will help you get comfortable with the path the blade will take as it cuts. This might help you avoid accidents when the saw is in actual use.
Unless you are very confident, you should start with small pieces of stock to test the saw. You should, however, make sure that the piece is long sufficient to be able to rest against the saw's bench as it is cut. Very small pieces are difficult to cut if they are not secured with clamps as it is cut.
You should try to make distinct cuts with distinct size and types of stock. You should do this until you feel assuredly comfortable with using the saw. You should keep experimenting with the distinct functions of the saw. There are bound to be handy trick on the saws that will make using it a pleasure.
How To Use A Miter Saw - Things Every Sawer Should Be Aware Of
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cease Carpentry Tips and Tricks For the Diy Trimmer
In end carpentry the trim wood nearby doors is called casing. When casing a door you want to try and get the miters as tight as possible. A miter joint is the point where two pieces of casing meet at a corner. At a 90 degree angle where two pieces of casing meet each piece will be cut at 45 degrees to make this 90 degree corner. In ideas this should work perfectly every time but minute variables and imperfections throw this ideas out of whack. Here are some tips and tricks to use to combat these minute variables for almost perfect miters every time.
In order to have two pieces of casing cut at 45 degrees to make a 90 degree angle the casing has to be perfectly flat. A lot of times this isn't inherent because the jamb of a door either sticks out past the inside sheet rocked wall or doesn't come out flush to the inside sheet rocked wall. This causes the casing to be tipped either inward or outward and when the casing is tipped in or out this will convert the degree at the angle because of the length of the miter to close the gaps. For example; if the casing is tipped inward or outward the miter will be open slightly to the inside or face of the joint depending on how much it is tipped. Chances are you will run into this qoute while doing end carpentry but there is a solution.
In end carpentry when casing a door or window all the time start with the top piece of casing. If the casing will be fairly flat when applied in place go ahead and cut each end at 45 degrees with a minute bevel back at the cut so the face of the casing is just slightly longer then the back of the casing. To get this minute bevel at the 45 degree cut slide a small piece of card board under the casing and close to the blade before cutting to slightly lift the end of the casing up the thickness of the card board. This piece of card board should be about an inch or so wide and the length of the width of the casing.
Another technique to get this bevel is to cut the casing upside down at the saw. If you have former type casing the casing will be thicker on the face edge and go thinner to the inside edge. By cutting the casing upside down you automatically will generate a natural back cut or bevel to the 45 degree angle cut.
Now you have the top piece of casing tacked in place with the ends cut at 45 degrees, it's just a bit of trial and error now. Cut a piece of scrap casing at the 45 degree angle and hold it in place. This will show you where the gaps are at the joint and you can adjust the miter saw to the accurate degree to close the gap. When you have the accurate degree adjusted to the miter saw you are ready to cut the next piece of casing that will be installed and have a nice tight miter. Be sure to apply the bevel technique to each cut.
Always apply glue to your miters before manufacture the joint. Then each miter will be pinned together with a small nail at the outer angle so the nail goes through the miter to hold the two pieces together tightly. I use an 18 gauge nailer for nailing the inside of the casing to the door jamb as well as at the face miter joint. After everything is pinned with the small gun I will use a 16 gauge gun to solidly nail the outer edge of the casing to the wall. When using the bigger gun to end the nailing process stay away from the miter joint so you don't disturb the miter.
Finish carpentry has many minute tips and tricks and these minute tricks can have a big impact to the over all potential and the time it takes to end a project.
cease Carpentry Tips and Tricks For the Diy Trimmer
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Tile Saws - choosing the Right Saw For Your Cutting Job
Tile saws are used to cut flooring materials along with ceramic tile, porcelain, marble, granite and slate. Tile saws come in several separate types, however, they all share some basic similarities. All tile saws cut by abrading or scraping the covering of the material at high speed. This is ordinarily done with a solitaire blade. solitaire blades, as their name implies, have many tiny man made market ability solitaire suspended in a hardened metal powder. As the blade spins against the tile, the diamonds scrape away the material in a thin straight line, eventually cutting the tile in two. The blade builds up heat as it cuts. To keep the heat generated by the blade from over-heating the motor, the tile saw uses water to cool the blade as it cuts. solitaire blades can be supplanted as they wear out. Blades can also be changed on the saw allowing the saw user to hire separate blade types for cutting separate materials.
Bench Type Tile Saws
These saws are small, light and portable. They feature a blade that protrudes up straight through a slot in the cutting surface. Blade sizes on these saws vary from 4 to 7 inches in diameter. Since these saws ordinarily do not have a table rail, there is no corporal limit to the size of tile they can cut. As a practical matter, cutting a tile that is larger than the size of the table is difficult. Directly below the blade is a water pan. As the blade spins, it travels straight through the water to cool. The cutting depth of the blade is ordinarily adjustable. Some saws also allow the angle of the blade to be adjusted for miter cuts. Because the blade turns directly on the motor shaft, these saws ordinarily have only one speed. Due to their size and easy design, these saws are relatively inexpensive, easy to use and a good option for homeowners.
7 inch Tile Saws with Stand
These saws are larger and heavier than bench top units and often come with a stand. The 7 inch diameter blade is mounted above the cutting table which slides on rollers or bearings. The tile remains stationary on the table as it is pushed into the blade. These saws use a pump ideas to cool the blade as opposed easy water immersion. They use a direct drive motor and often have accessories like laser cutting guides not found on smaller saws. These saws ordinarily can not handle tiles larger than 13" square. This type of saw is accepted for experienced homeowners or contractors finding for a cost sufficient saw that can be positively moved. Expect to pay 0 to 0 for a saw like this.
10 inch Tile Saws with Stand
These saws are large and heavy. They can weight 150 pounds or more and feature a belt driven motor. Many of these saws have multiple cutting speeds that make them more flexible for cutting a wide collection of material. These saws use a 10 inch diameter blade though some saws can use larger blades. Their bigger frame and cutting table means they can handle large format tiles. Some saws in this class can cut tiles up to 30 inches square. These saws use a water pump to cool the blade and feature multiple accessories for cutting angles and miters. This type of saw is the option for contractors and other heavy users. Prices range from 0 to several thousand dollars for this type of saw.
When selecting a tile saw, users should keep in mind what kind of execution they are going to need. By matching the size of their job, the size and type of material that needs to be cut and the funds available, the user will be sure to buy a tile saw that is just right for the job at hand.
Tile Saws - choosing the Right Saw For Your Cutting Job
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